Brother Blue
By Gene Monterastelli
September 2, 2004 by Gene

More of Mexico

My Spanish
Of the six of us traveling, there was very Spanish knowledge. Both Jerry and I speak some Spanish (he has a much larger vocabulary) one other in our group had taken some high school Spanish, but never had much practical use, and the other three spoke none at all. After Raúl had left us at the orphanage, we spent most of our time with only Spanish speakers. Time and time again people in the group would turn to me to explain what was said or to speak for them. It was really good for me. When I was in Spain, I was sounded by so many really goods speakers that I would simply defer to those around me. Ask them to translate, or to speak for me. In Mexico I didn’t have that luxury. I had to speak. It was good for me.
Pyramids
On one of our days around Mexico City we visited the pyramids to the north of the city. At the site there were three pyramids and a number of smaller structures, walls, steps, small buildings and the like. The structures are about 2200 years old. Other than that, not much is known about them or why they were built.

When Cortez arrived, the Aztecs occupied the area and were using the pyramids, but they where not the ones who built them. They were also not the people who conquered the people who built the pyramids. Instead, they simply stumbled on to them about 450 years after the nation that did build them disappeared. Modern scientists have no idea what happened to these people. They are just gone. Because the Aztecs had no idea what the building where used for, they just made up the best use they could think of. Today the two main pyramids are called the pyramids of the sun and moon, because that is what best fit into the Aztecs belief system, but has nothing to do with the builder intent.
We spent most of the afternoon at the pyramids. We hiked up all three (at least as high as we go, one was closed half way up for restoration work). So now I can say I climbed the third tallest pyramid in the world (I know you are jealous).

The whole area is near a town, but it is small. For the most part there are many fewer lights in Mexico, than in the states. With that being said, I can’t image what the stars must look like at night from the top. No light pollution and being raised up so high, being able to see the whole sky. I guess it is just another experience to add to the list of things to do before death sets in.
The structure themselves were just amazing. Not only where they huge, but they had lots of wonderful stone work. Wonderful exotic art. Built over 2200 years ago. I know I continue to under estimate the “primitive” cultures of the Americas. I was struck with the same sense touring the museums of Ecuador a few years ago. We talk about the Americas being discover a little more than five hundred years ago, as if nothing but heathens were here before that. As if no culture existed before.
Bargaining
We did most of our souvenir shopping in the first few days, because there was nothing of that sort up in Colòn. When it comes to shopping, bargaining is par for the course. And I am not just talking about what the tourist do on the streets, it is done by everyone, in many places.
At one point we received a lesson for a local, who spent the day at the pyramids with us, on how to bargain. It was very funny watching him over act exasperation. Eyes rolling. Arms flailing. I mean I would look that distraught the death of a close friend.
Now it was obvious that we were receiving the extragero (foreigner) mark up. So much so that there were few times where I asked a price. To make sure I understood what they had said I asked again. When I did the price had magically lowered by ten percent. (I am such a shrewd bargainer.) When I was in Ecuador I was the master at getting a deal, so much so I was asked by one of my teachers to buy something for her. But I couldn’t bring myself to do it. The prices where so low, how could I fight for a discount. “You know forty cents is just way too much to pay for a rosary. How about half that?” What I struggled with was, how should I feel about that. It seemed silly to fight for a few cents, but by accepting the first price was I being arrogant and flaunting what I had with my cavalier attitude towards money. Or maybe once again I am just over thinking everything (which is the most likely conclusion).

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